We arrived - traveled in style, slept in style, ate in style and now the real fun begins! They tell you all sorts of remedies, witchcraft and voodoo concoctions to avoid jet lag - don't kid yourself it is caffeine and apparently 30 miles of walking in Rome!
We are here and loved every minute of the journey and the first destination. We landed at about 8 am Rome (GMT +1:00) so exactly eight hours behind Jackson and Denver, USA. We departed at 10:25 am MT, flew to Dulles (IAD for the airport code stricken travelers I know). Landed there at about 3:30 pm ET - everyone keeping this straight???? And departed IAD at 6:00 pm ET to arrive early in Rome (FCO). The flight over the european content was just at dawn so I could see small mountain towns and ski resorts, almost like flying over Summit County in Colorado - but the mountains are different; sever and stark, and from some perspectives, endless. A real mountaineer's dream.
We flow over Turin and then the Mediterranean as we angled for Rome. The Mediterranean, or the Tyrrhenian Sea, seemed so calm and you could see small fishing boats just off shore. There were a few small quaint towns dotting the landscape of forest and farmlands and once and a while you would see an outcropping of buildings that looked like a medieval village - we are getting close! I was so surprised to see the number of farms and farmland right up until we landed. This is Rome? where is the massive sprawling city I read about? The historical buildings? Where is the famed Roman Empire? I guess this was it.
We disembarked and headed to get our luggage and negotiate customs. We breezed through customs without even a pause - maybe their computers weren't working and they couldn't do a thorough background check on us - we received our Stamp and grabbed our behemoth suitcases faster than worming through DIA. Our driver was right out front waiting for us and within minutes we were in our car headed to our hotel. The outskirts of Rome looked like any other city - shopping malls, 24 hour movie theaters, slightly industrial, some office buildings - no more than 20 stories high it seemed. We passed a building that our driver said was referred to as Mussolini's Palace because of the 6 levels and the 6 arched windows on each floor. I should have written that one down but wasn't Mussolini one of the bad guys? Why do I want to remember that?
One possible reason why I don't remember the details was that I may have been paying too much attention to the insanity of driving in Rome (I would come to learn the lunacy wasn't confined to just Rome). Lane lines were meaningless, motorcycles and mopeds zoomed in-between cars - front, back, sides - these guys AND GALS were nuts and yet impressive at the same time. XGames have nothing on a Roman driver! SAFETY TIP - do not drive a car or bike in Rome, or Italy for that matter. Taxi and limo is the only way to go. Train if you have to. Bus if you have absolutely no other choice.
As we closed in on the center of Rome, the history started to be apparent. There we were, just driving in some European city and BAM! - the Arch of Constantine - but isn't that next to the Colosseum??? BAM! - there is the Colosseum! We went from store fronts and vintage 1970's architecture and buildings to 315 AD (Arch of Constantine) and 72 AD (Colosseum). Then there is Domus Aurea just to the right of the Colosseum built by Emperor Nero (not popular and still don't use his name - even the Nero grape and wine is taboo to order) built in 64 AD. We zoom right around them like they were nothing out of the ordinary - in this town I guess they might be ho hum but it was a bit jaw dropping for us. A few more tight turns and narrowly escaping death down a few alleys - they call them highways, they wouldn't even register as a bike path in the States - we are at the Hassler Hotel for check-in, a quick rest and an afternoon stroll around Rome.
The Hassler Hotel is a five star hotel as opulent as any in the world with one unique difference - it is at the top of the Spanish Steps and overlooks all of Rome. The best deal is to stay at the Il Palazzetto Roma - owned and operated by the Hassler but and across the street - all it is missing is 24 hour room service and some amenities - fitness center (who cares???), lobby, restaurant, etc. But the rooms more than make up for it! We had this monster room that opened up on to the street entrance to the train station and street level at the bottom of the Spanish Steps on one side and a magnificent view of Rome and the half-way point of the Steps where tourists, Romans, Italians and buskers congregate, take pictures, take in the sights all the while we watch them from our plush room. Our room had vaulted ceilings that were rounded so it was like a big dome and when you spoke out loud while looking up it focused your voice right back at you with more volume - a focal ceiling in a hotel room - interesting… The bathroom was spacious - full size jetted tub, Shower room, separate toilet and bidet room (they are big on Bidet's in Italy but more on that later - not too much, just a little more) - Unbelievable room - thank you Elizabeth!
We had just enough time to check out the room, unpack a few things, put the walking shoes on and grab something to eat. The concierge at the hotel suggested a ristorante nearby - Life. Are you kidding, head out into the wilds of Rome on our own? She knew what I was thinking and handed me a map with a highlighted path. Ok, when in Rome….
The first thing you notice is the ground - square black rock that is hard as, well, rock, and the travertine stone. The next thing you notice is all the people and the last thing your prepared for is the peddlers of roses. These Indian guys are everywhere - trying to hand the women flowers so you have to pay them money, sell you a trinket or two, or laying out purses and handbags - all illegal of course and as soon as the Polizia show up they are gone. We see this cool fountain sunk into the ground at the base of the Steps, Fontana della Baraccia. Then you look back up the Steps and realize - we are in Rome!
The picture above is of the fountain looking back up the steps. The Hassler Hotel is at the top just right of the the towers and our room was just to the left of the staircase, tucked behind the building on the left but was taller than that building so we could see all of Rome.
You learn that Via = Street and if you follow the Steps and just keep walking you are on Via Della Condotti - also known as Rodeo Drive and I am not talking Rodeo as in Cheyenne Frontier Days - more like Beverly Hills. Every top name in fashion, jewelry and iconic branding is right there - for miles. I made a mental note to avoid that street but I think Ann had made just the opposite mental note and we would be back to explore in-depth.
We found our lunch destination, Life, and settled in for non-gasse water and an unreal Italian experience - the food was outstanding - pasta is always served al dente and I had the Fruitte Di Mare with a fettucini type noodle that was out of this world. Ann had a scampi dish in olive oil and lemons that was the best she probably ever had. Are you kidding, the best meal of our lives and this is just lunch on day Uno! We finished up and headed back to our hotel to meat Mauro for our tour of Historical Rome.
We found our way back to the Il Palazzetto - I actually felt comfortable navigating my way around Rome and never got us lost - only found in a few places we didn't expect to be! Mauro was waiting for us and he was a wonderful guide. His english was very good but you had to be careful with American phrases because he didn't pick up on them right off. Once you explained them though you would find the tables turned and he was using them right back atcha - Great Guide! As we look back we don't know much about him but we speculate he was an art history major or trained in classical history - he knew everything and tailored our time with him to hit the most important things. Thank you Mauro!
The goal of the afternoon tour was to give us a sense of the original Rome and see some of the basics, Pantheon, Treve Foutain, learn about Baroque and Renaissance. To do that properly you visit lots of churches. Rome must have thousands of churches and old Rome, where we were focused, had hundreds and I think we tried to see most of them. First stop was to find some coffee to energize for the afternoon hike.
A few rules about coffee in Italy - Cafe Americano is american coffee, aka week, Latte is half milk and you don't order that because they will definitely know you aren't from around those parts, cappuccino, is all I drank - wonderful, espresso is strong and never drink after 1 or 2 in the afternoon (have these guys seen any of the Soproano's shows???). And in any case do not commit the following crime - never have any coffee type beverage after ANY meal where you drink wine - it is blasphemy! Well that does it for coffee with breakfast for me….
Also, you can't get a coffee to go; apparently they are to be cherished and consumed standing up at the counter. Weird frankly and we didn't get used to it. We learned that the hard way - went to Caffe Greco right from the hotel to get a to-go cup - not happening. But Caffe Greco is famous because it has been open and in the same spot since the 17th century - who says drinking coffee will be a passing fad? 17th Century! Wow. It opened in 1760 by a Greek man and has been one of the most famous places for politicians, rock stars, writers and the rich & famous. Imagine that we weren't even a country, officially!
The good thing about scheduling a walk right after your all night flight in a "lay flat, you should be sleeping not drinking wine, don't eat too much, yes I will watch my third movie, international business class seat", is that you need to keep moving to get over jet lag. The bad thing is that you are a bit hazy on the facts and I will have to email Mauro to make sure I get the details straight. We went to a coffee shop that was in a courtyard (forever to be known as Piazza's). Piazza S. Silvestro with these amazing benches made of Travertine stone - the size of couches that continuously ran for 75 feet. Loaded up on caffeine grabbed a bottle of water and learned that you just need to carry an empty bottle with you because the Roman Aqueducts were alive and well and almost every fountain in Rome served quality drinking water - amazing and we saw it in action many times. We weren't so adventurous though. One bottle water, non-gasse to go please…
We walked and walked visited numerous churches, the Pantheon - major highlight (watch Angel's and Demons) - Treve Fountain, Adriano Temple, Palazzo Montecitonia, Palazzo Madama, Column of Marcus Aurelius (watch Gladiator) and ended up in Piazza Navona.
Treve Fountain
Pantheon
Column of Marcus Aurelius
We also learned tidbits like the Knights of Malta.
Who aren't even from Malta. This order is the oldest known protectors of the church and it's beliefs and has been kicked out of most countries they occupied until they came to Rome. Google them and enjoy the story. It was one of many stories we learned that day.
When Mauro departed from us that afternoon in Piazza Navona we were left to find our way back to the Hotel. No problem, I have a map right? We did find our hotel including a stop at a supermarket - the size of a phone booth - to pick up bottles of water and alas, we ended up right on Via della Condotti, remember, shopper's paradisio. Ann was too tired to do anything more than window shop and it is a bit overwhelming because there are armed guards practically at every entrance - guess they don't want the casual American window shopper that isn't going to buy anything and can't afford even the shoe laces you might sell. Bulgari, Gucci, Chanel, Ferragamo, you name it, it was there, everywhere in fact. We even found a North Face and timberland store - two of each of them within blocks of each other. What is this place?
Once back at the hotel we went to the rooftop patio bar and watched life pass by on the Spanish Steps below and enjoy the setting sun over Rome. Falanghina is a fantastic grape grown in the Campania (pronounce Campana thought) and is a light, chardonnay like grape that Ann and I really enjoyed the wine of. I also tried every Brunnello I could afford but that wasn't as many as I would have liked - they are pricey but delicious.
That evening we enjoyed some wine and a light snack of olives and tidbits for an early collapse.
Until tomorrow, Buona Sera!
What have I missed? What am I not thinking of? What will I need when I get there and I don't have it? Why do I need so much stuff - stuff I will probably only lug around the mountain of Pompeii, Amalfi coast, the fountains of Rome and never even unpack…
This is Day Zero - also know as "The Packing Day!"
I have already identified two things that I need to run out and get while Ann is perfectly ready. Walking shoes - bought. Second pair of walking shoes - procured as well. Advil, Benadryl, Claritin, toothpaste, sun screen - check!
Do I need 5 electrical converters? Will I really need 12 pairs of socks - all white; and three pairs of black socks too?
Today is the day to answer these and many more questions for tomorrow is too late. Ann and I are headed to Italy for a 12 day conquest of Rome, Isle of Capri and the Amalfi Coast. We can't thank Elizabeth Montana and Dream Italia (www.dreamitalia.com - yes, shameless plug) for their guidance and creativity for our journey. I think we are prepared but like the great boxing quote "everyone has a plan until they get hit" - reminds me that we won't be sure until we get there or better yet, return…
The preparations for this started back in December of 2011 as I worked with Elizabeth to surprise Ann for Christmas with an Italian guided tour. Now it is Day zero - all negotiations with United are done, hotels identified and reserved, trip is paid for, Euro's purchased (at all time great rates I might add but you never really get currency exchange conversions until you had some stranger four grand in US dollars and they hand you back three coins and a debit card and say "Its in there!" - like a Prego commercial), the Rosetta Stone lessons, the books, the maps, the meetings with Elizabeth - at least ten of them (Elizabeth is so patient…) - the emails, the questions - FINIRE! All I know is it better be or we are in the deep end of the lake, and by lake I mean Mediterranean without a Euro.
Speaking of plans, here is the plan: pack and finish work today, watch football - it will be a while until I can again - flight check-in, run to drug store, run to office, setup out-of-office for work (mine and AG's), make sure things are charged - iPad, iPhone, iPod, MacBook Pro, Bose Headphones, Sony a77 DSLR, Philips Sonic toothbrush (aka "the Vaporizer"), electric razor and on and on and on... Irony would say that none of the fancy electricity converters from Tumi I bought will work and we will be huddled around a candle to keep warm and use the back of a kitchen knife to perform the personal grooming requirements.
The point of this blog is not to entertain or share our deepest thoughts - that is another site that you will have to google, or bing, yourself. The point is to share some pictures and provide a running narrative on our adventures and experiences. This is the first time in Italy for either of us, and the way the Eurozone economics are going, Italy might be sold to cover the Greek and Spanish losses so who knows if it will even be there in 2 years.
Updates will try to be done daily but at the point who the hell knows if I even will find time to tickle the keyboard - are you aware of how much wine, lemoncello, pasta, fountains, walking, standing we will be doing?!?!?! I may end up writing this post-return in October. Ah well, remember the boxing quote about plans….
Arrivederci mio amicos!
